To breathe in Ghana is to breathe the air of sisterhood. Everywhere you travel you are greeted by female youth, peers, and elders alike including you as a part of the global family. Whether it is a child referring to you as “Auntie” or an elder calling you “daughter”, your femaleness is honored. This sisterhood is on full display in the multitudes of markets and shops that you encounter throughout the country. The sharp, brilliant women who run these spaces are definitely about their business, but they never let you forget that your transaction is one between sisters, not strangers. Bargaining is required, but the goal is for a win-win outcome. The following are among some of my more memorable encounters:
Global Mamas is a fair trade boutique where gorgeous handcrafted clothing, jewelry and other accessories are supplied by a large network of local women who receive a sustainable income for their work. I walked away with bag loads of unique gifts that everyone loved when I returned home. Located in the Osu neighborhood of Accra, more information including store hours can be found at http://www.globalmamas.org. The sisters running this shop are warm and hospitable, committed to improving the lives of hundreds of women through commerce. Stop in for a visit and they will proudly share the stories of the women behind the crafts – giving voice to the voiceless and building global bridges of sisterhood.
Trust me when I tell you that Litzy-Navrongo Ghana is the place to buy Black Soap and Shea Butter!!! A tiny shop located in a tiny alley off Osu’s main drag – Oxford Road, it is not the least bit fancy but it has what you need. A jar of Shea butter that costs $10 -15 US in other stores in $1.50 – $2.00US here!!!! YES!!!, your eyes are not deceiving you. I had to make multiple trips to get enough products for all of my friends stateside. Keep an eye out for their sign (below) as that is the only way you will find them. Typically staffed by a young woman who takes such pride in the products knowing that they in their small way are helping sister of the Diaspora connect to their African heritage of beauty.
Those of you who have been following ThatTravelingBlackGirl over the years knows that I am one to go off the beaten path. Accra was no exception, while other tourists were going to the “overpriced” (price is relative when you are visiting from the privileged West) tourist markets, I ventured to the night markets where the working class ply their trades and sell to locals. The encounters I had with the entrepreneurs of the Nima Market one evening tattooed my soul’s tie to Ghana deeply on my heart. This massive commercial market is a labyrinth of stalls, kiosks, pails, pallets and cave-like shops. As I was dragged from spot to spot by the gentleman who grabbed me as soon as I got out of the car and self-appointed himself as my guide for the evening – yes, we tipped him handsomely at the end of the evening – I was in awe of the madness, the hustle, the joy to be encounter every few feet. At time I could not see the road in front of me, so thick was the cacophony of feet, wheelbarrows, goats hooves and chickens about me. In the midst of this my sisters smiled at me, came over to hug me, brought over samples of their food products, directed me to the goods I was in search of, and bargained like the best Harlem street hustlers I have ever encountered. Best of all were the laughs shared by women who did not speak a common language other than that of sisterhood and love. This fish merchant and I laughed and laughed and laughed although neither of us spoke the other’s language, we were just so happy to be spending a few minutes in each other’s company.
Whether the seamstress whipping together an outfit in less than a week from a road side stand, a fishmonger in the night market, a proprietor of local made goods, or the sister whipping up some Shea Butter/Cocoa Butter blends, the sisters in the Ghanaian markets are handling their businesses like bosses!!!! Make sure to spend some of your time and treasure with these ladies – it is good for the soul.
ThatTravelingBlackGirl 